Well Well, Well. Bill Theiss had predicted the future again!! It appears this Instagram starlet, Dixie d’Amelio, wore this sister dress to Sylvia’s gown at this year’s MTV Video Music Awards. I have never seen her site, nor ever watch these shows (wait, they still make music videos?) but when I came across this picture online, I had to honor William Ware Theiss’ predictive fashion yet again! Sylvia wins, of course.
UPDATE! (7-4-2021) I found another one! In The Omega Glory, the Kohm servant has a naked navel, but the moment is so quick, you may not have noticed! Sneaky!
In crazy times like these, perhaps we should contemplate our navels; or at least the ones on TOS.
As someone who loves costume design, I’ve always been curious as to the battles that costume designers face, be it making the costumes under budget and on time, to keeping within any restrictions given by the studio or network.
When the Original Series aired from 1966-69 on NBC, the network’s Standards and Practices (S&P) team were recruited to assure that rules were being followed to avoid censorship. For some reason, a woman’s navel was considered too sexy for family time, which is why Barbara Eden’s costume on NBC’s I Dream of Jeannie kept the waist of her harem pants high.
So how did William Ware (Bill) Theiss, master of the costume universe, keep to this rule? Well, he didn’t; just enough that the S&P didn’t notice! Bill figured no one would care about navels in the future, and slipped in the scary umbilicus whenever he could. But who won the battle of censorship? Let’s keep score – TOS vs. S&P: (and my scoring system is total nonsense!)
Exhibit A: The Cage. Theiss designed the iconic costumes from The Cage (1964) onward. And in The Cage, everyone knew Vina as the green Orion in a shiny reptile skin, with no navel exposure but lots of cut-outs. HOWEVER, there were also servers and other dancers in the background in harem-ish costumes with exposed navels:
SCORE: TOS – 1 S&P – 0
Exhibit B: The Corbomite Maneuver & Charlie X 
The network had no trouble with the good Captain exposing his navel, and practically welcomed it. Probably to present Kirk as the macho alpha male. Both sides win. Look at that nice flat tummy. Put a pin in these pictures for now.
SCORE: TOS – 2 S&P – 1
Exhibit C: Mudd’s Women. 
Although Harry Mudd’s ‘escorts’ were quite stylish, none had exposed navels (although there were hip, thigh and cleavage slashes).
SCORE: TOS – 2 S&P – 2
Exhibit D: The Naked Time. 
The S&P need not worry at the episode’s title, as Sulu (George Takei) was the only one who was half naked, but even his navel was covered with a high modest waistband!
SCORE: TOS – 2 S&P – 3
Exhibit D: What Are Little Girls Made Of.
Andrea the Android (Sherry Jackson) exposed plenty with her X-shaped jumpsuit bodice, but not her navel! Theiss gets a half point for it’s daring.
SCORE: TOS – 2.5 S&P – 4
Exhibit E: Shore Leave
McCoy’s Showgirls may have worn fluorescent Tribbles for brassieres, but their dangerously inappropriate navels are plugged up with teeny tiny Tribbles; making them safe for democracy. Half point for cleverness.
SCORE: TOS – 3 S&P – 4.5
Exhibit F: A Taste of Armageddon
Mea 3 (Barbara Babcock) and the women of Eminiar VII exposed their flanks in fancy togas, but not their navels!
SCORE: TOS – 3 S&P – 5.5
Exhibit G: Catspaw
In Sylvia’s (Antoinette Bower) little fashion show for Kirk, she exposes her rib cage, but no navel! 1/2 point for daring.
SCORE: TOS – 3.5 S&P – 6.5
Exhibit H: Who Mourns for Adonais?
Who could forget Carolyn Palamas’ iconic candy pink toga? It exposed Leslie Parrish’s entire back, right arm, some leg and a considerable amount of torso and hip, but no navel. There are two conflicting stories about this stunning creation. Theiss stated in The Making of Star Trek , the costume held in place without any need for anchoring tape, while later I read that Ms. Parish did have to be taped in to avoid censorship. I’m still giving this one a full point for just being beautifully designed and engineered! They each get a half point because I want to round up the score!
SCORE: TOS -5 S&P- 7
Exhibit I: Wolf in the Fold
There was a big trend in 1960s movies and TV for belly dancers and harems (maybe inspired by I Dream of Jeannie?). Trek was no exception. The first person we see in Wold in the Fold is Kara (Tanya Lemani) in her magnificent belly dancer garb, complete with plastic used-car-lot fringe! Beautiful! But she dare not show her navel so a little pink flower was plunked in there! Must be a good adhesive because despite Kara’s shimmy, it never falls out! Btw, Tanya is one of my Facebook pals, and Tanya, if you’re reading this, <3 Hi! <3 Tanya is still dancing these days and she rocks! Love ya, girl! TOS gets a half star for daring.
SCORE: TOS – 5.5 S&P – 8
Exhibit J: The Apple
Well, the S&P must have had that week off, because all the natives of Gamma Trianguli VI had nekkid navels! Three points for Bill Theiss getting away with it! TOS inches into the lead!
SCORE: TOS – 8.5 S&P – 8
Exhibit K: Mirror, Mirror With this blatant display of the alternate 
universe female uniform, it is said that the crew lured the S&P member off the set with a big lunch to film Uhura’s bridge scene! But how did he not notice Marlena? By now it was 1967, maybe the Summer of Love got the censors less uptight! (Now if only Spock was allowed to wear his tunic open!). Two points for each actress getting away with it!
SCORE: TOS – 10.5 S&P – 8
Exhibit L: I, Mudd For heaven’s sake! Even Norman had a navel! (maybe a charger port…or three?) But the Alices and all the other female android series kept theirs hidden! 1 for S&P!
SCORE: TOS – 10.5 S&P – 9
Exhibit : Bread and Circuses
The network never seemed to complain of exposed hip bones on minor characters like Drusilla here, but no navel. Clever (and a bit creepy) credit for use of chain as an accessory here, 1/2 point to TOS for originality, 1 Point for S&P.
SCORE: TOS – 11 S&P – 10
Exhibit M: A Private Little War
Nona (Nancy Kovak) may have been a Kanutu Woman, but she was also a perfect precursor to 60’s hippie girls! Between her low slung leather bell bottoms (with the emphasis on bell) and her macrame necklace she was ahead of the Woodstock generation by 2 years! Of course, California is usually ahead of the curve fashion-wise from the rest of the country, so Theiss was probably surrounded by this in LA. Even so, she’s proud of her navel and you better not cross her S&P, she’s armed! 1 point for TOS!
SCORE: TOS – 12 S&P – 9
Exhibit N – The Gamesters of Triskellion
Everyone remembers Shahna (Angelique Pettyjohn) for her aluminum bikini, but despite it’s boldness and its possibility as a popcorn popper, it still modestly hides her navel. And that bikini is also a marvel of engineering. Whereas all the other drill thralls (and the Enterprise crew) wore their harnesses on the outside, Shannah’s harness is incorporated into her bikini; which means she can’t wear one without the other. Well, at least she could tuck her matching gloves into it when she wasn’t using them. Half point to TOS for its skimpiest costume yet, but a full point to S&P.
SCORE: TOS – 12.5 S&P – 10
Exhibit O – Patterns of Force 
Well well, two navels appear here, although the Captain’s we’ve seen before, (see above), blessedly, this will be the last time we see Kirk’s navel for the rest of the series.* The good Captain is not quite as fit as he was in Season 1, but then, ANYONE would look a bit doughy next to Spock’s remarkably lean frame. TOS gets a 1/2 point for finally letting Spock lose his shirt. *and YES, I know that Kirk was stripped to the waist in The Empath, but we only see his front from the pectorals up!)
SCORE: TOS – 13 S&P – 10
Exhibit P – 
The Omega Glory and The Savage Curtain Did you ever notice that Sirah of Omega Glory and Zora of Savage Curtain both wore the same tattered two-piece? Zora added a fur piece, but there was no denying that Theiss had cleverly covered their navels (just barely) with a convenient flap? Of course in battle scenes, the flap would flip up, but censors didn’t catch it! One point for TOS recycling!
SCORE: TOS – 14 S&P – 10
Exhibit Q: Assignment: Earth We only see her for a second, but when Isis (April Tatro) is revealed as a woman, she’s breaking the rules, as any good cat would. 1 point for TOS sneaking it in! 
SCORE: TOS – 15 S&P – 10
Exhibit R: Elaan of Troyus The warrior Elaan got to wear 4 different
gorgeous costumes while on the Enterprise, all stunning and suggestive, but none with the dreaded navel. Her silver appliques here blot it out. S&P gets 4 points for still getting their way with 4 different costumes!
SCORE: TOS – 15 S&P – 14
Exhibit S: That Which Survives 
Losira (Lee Meriwether) might have been for Mr. D’Amato, but her pants were purely for modesty. High-waisted with a ridiculous anti-navel flap, the S&P had won again! And we’re tied.
TOS – 15 S&P 15
Exhibit T – For the World is Hollow and I Have Touched the Sky.
For the leader of a civilization, it’s a shame Natira had only one glorious gown (maybe Elaan used up all the budget!) But despite her prestigious title, she was beholden to the network S&P, with her navel wrapped up like a very fancy mummy. Still quite gorgeous. Kudos and a point to Theiss for continuing to work with metallic fabrics (which he loathed!) and a point to S&P for winning again! Like Natira’s gown, we’re still tied up!
TOS – 16 S&P 16
Exhibit U: The Cloud Minders 
I think by this time in Season Three, Theiss was getting pretty sick of navel restrictions. By the time they filmed The Cloud Minders, the 74th episode of the last season, I don’t think S&P were too vigilant anymore. Hence, Theiss let ’em have it with two prominent displays here. 2 points for TOS! Someday I want a tummy like Vanna again – (Droxine, please eat something!) <3
TOS – 18 S&P 16
Exhibit V: The Way to Eden 
Gotta let Hippes be Hippies. Yeah, the episode was dated, but Irina’s gown was impeccable! With a lonely little navel in the flower patch, it’s Hippie chic! One point for TOS.
TOS – 19 S&P 16
Exhibit W: All Our Yesterdays 
Zarabeth’s covering is little more than rags tied around her body, but she still keeps her navel modestly covered. Kudos for remaining remarkably clean in a damp cave! Theiss gets a full point for leading the way in TV costume, S&P get’s a point for still getting their way.
Final Score TOS – 20 S&P 17
The Navel Battle was Won by Star Trek!
I was browsing one of my favorite sites yesterday (Tom and Lorenzo), and came across a colorful collection for Fall 2018 by Italian designer Moschino.  The collection clearly was influenced by the bright stylings of the Mod era 1960s with a lot of Jackie Kennedy in full Technicolor and clearly other pop references.
What’s this got to do with Star Trek? Well, if imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, than one of Moschino’s designers must be a Trekkie. How else can you explain the mint green spangled gown that would either make the late William Ware Theiss proud OR have him suing for stealing his design?
Look closely, and you can see the gown was clearly influenced by Mudd’s Women. The spangled mint green fabric and upper bodice with diagonal slash is clearly Ruth Bonaventure’s gown. And the bottom half of the gown clearly borrows from Eve McHuron’s pink gown with its diamond-shaped slashes across the hips and thighs.
Left: A model sashays down the runway in a Trek-inspired gown in the Moschino Fall 2018 Collection. Right: Eve and Ruth in the originals by William Ware Theiss in Star Trek’s “Mudd’s Women”
Now I admit, Mudd’s Women is not one of my most favorite episode of TOS, (and I’ll do a write up on it eventually) but I’m both happy and a little bummed to see Theiss’ influence a good 52 years after the original airing.  Happy that the costume design still resonate a half century later, bummed because this isn’t even trying to be original, but a clear mash-up of the two original gowns. Well, I hope the Theiss estate gets a chunk of the profit!
You can see the whole collection here.
(NOTE: Hey Kids, This is a repost of one of my earliest articles from way back in 2011 when I started this blog! Posting it again today since I am finally writing Part II, about Star Trek Props!)
As I reviewed old episodes of Trek, it was enlightening to see where the costume and production departments saved money and cut costs while making the the episodes. In this first article in the series, I’ll discuss Costume Recycling.
William Ware Theiss ( to be referred here always as WWT) , the supreme costume designer/wunderkind for Star Trek TOS, was always on a tight budget and a tighter schedule. Not only could this genius improvise a bolt of cloth into a ‘how-does-it-stay-on’ gown for an alien princess, but he knew when and how to re-use elements when needed.
*In S1’s The Conscience of the King, Lenore Karidian has the wardrobe that keeps on giving. Early on, she basically wears a luxuriant gray mink bath wrap. At its center is a lovely cats eye oval brooch with a pearl drop.  In a later episode, (s2’s Assignment: Earth) the gray mink dress turns up on a modern (read 1967) passerby in the crowd on Gary Seven’s Earth–this time with a longer skirt under it. Two seasons later, (S3’s Plato’s Stepchildren) the Lenore’s brooch shows up on the bosom of Lt. Uhura when she is forced into Grecian gear by the Platonians.  Just goes to show that a good piece of jewelry never goes out of style!
*Another of Lenore’s gowns had been re-purposed from an earlier episode. The first time, in Dagger of the Mind, it was seen as a tie-closure tunic in foamy green and aqua stripes and a pale pink lame border. When Lenore wore it for her observation deck flirtation with Kirk, the gown has been reversed, sewn up at the shoulders, caftan style, and green marabou added at the sleeves, hints of the pink lining are glimpsed.   Seems a bit ironic that Lenore’s gown was recycled from the gown of a a sanitarium resident, since Lenore herself, (although never seen there), ends up in a sanitarium too.
*Lenore’s Father, Karidian, wears a dramatic olive green robe of a coat with a dark blue swirly branch design running through it, with faux yellow-green fur trim. The very same coat is worn two seasons later by the mad Captain Garth in S3’s Whom Gods Destroy. Then Garth himself has borrowed a blue suit from Commissioner Ferris from S1’s The Galileo Seven–the collar tabs were changed from white to sparkly blue, The ascot is gone, and Garth has added jewelry. (Accessories, ladies!)
*In Season 1, Mudd’s Women, we see Eve and Ruth, two of Harry’s “cargo” looking the stunners in rose pink and mint green sparkly gowns that Diana Ross would kill for. In S2’s I, Mudd, who should turn up in these same gowns but the Annabelle and Maisie Series among Mudd’s improved androids. Gives you a bit of insight into how 60’s TV worked. I’m guessing that WWT made two gowns for the originals, especially Eve since she had more action scenes, and kept them around for incidentals.  And Harry Mudd must know a wholesale retailer for glam space lady gowns! Also in I, Mudd, Norman and the other male androids wear tight gray knit long underwear that leave very little to the imagination. Later two of the same gray tights show up on Lokai and Beale in Let That Be Your Last Battlefield, only with silver spangly trim added at the shirt hem and matching gloves with matching silver spangly cuffs.
This recycling on WWT’s part became commonplace. Usually, it’s the gowns of central female characters that end up on extras in later scenes. For example:
*Attorney and Kirk-Ex Ariel Shaw wore a vibrant yellow, green and pink paisley caftan at the bar in Court Martial. (WWT loved caftans!) It shows up later on a female alien ambassador extra in Journey To Babel. And in that same scene, extra is talking to a man in another recycled suit, Lazarus’ blue suit from The Alternative Factor (Yet the suit from the later episode seems to be untorn and clean– maybe WWT made two versions?)
*In The Deadly Years, Dr. Janet Wallace first appears in brightly pink and yellow dyed burlap jumpsuit (What was WWT thinking?!) And later, in a swirly purple multi-print. Yet both of these outfits suffer a nasty fate in the S3 episode Where the Children Shall Lead where (blink and you’ll miss it) they are seen on two of the doomed mothers on the planet Triacus. (Heck, if I had to wear an itchy burlap jumpsuit, I’d die too!) In another flashback on Triacus, we see a happy mother in a pink cowl-necked mini dress, which was originally worn in the S1 episode of The Conscience of the King by character Martha Leighton. Then another of Martha Leighton’s gowns is being worn and slightly modified with straps and fluff by the android version of Harry Mudd’s wife, Stella, in S2’s I, Mudd.
Obsessed fashionistas will find The Ultimate Recycled Moment came from Seasons 1, 2, and from another TV series. In S2′s Catspaw, the wizard Korob  wears a pumpkin colored robe with gold lame hood and front panel, with an all-watching eye at its center. In S1′s The Squire of Gothos, spoiled brat General Trelaine wears a grand blue velvet suit and cape trimmed with gold leaves in his castle. But wait! Didn’t we see BOTH of these costumes in an episode of Gilligan’s Island? Yup, Korob’s gown was worn by Bob Denver as the Fairy God-Father in Lovey’s Cinderella Dream in Lovey’s Secret Admirer. And then, Mr, Howell himself as the Prince, dances the night away in Trelane’s Cape! UPDATE! 6/15/14: A reader here pointed out that they may have seen Trelane’s coat on Mike Nesmith in an episode of The Monkees (Also anNBC series) and he was right: In the episode The Prince and The Pauper, we first see the coat on an old footman, then Mike dons it when pretending to be Davy’s footman. Later we see two of Trelane’s coats in the same scene, which begs the question, how many were made? I’ve also see a later photo of William Campbell, posing in his Trelane finery; I’m glad the costumers let him have one!
(11/22/12 — Found another one! Another series crossover is from the 1966 Daniel Boone episode, SeminoleTerritory, where character of Fletcher wears a splendid Indian feathered cape. Fast Forward to 1968, In The Paradise Syndrome, and Jim Kirk, a.k.a. ‘Kirok’ is wearing the same cape to marry Miramanee!  I bet some of the other native costumes were reused here too, Boone was another NBC series).
(Update 9/29/15)Â Colonel Green’s Red jumpsuit from The Savage Curtain was later recycled into Mork from Ork (Robin William)’s classic red uniform on Mork and Mindy! Â The original doo-dads from the shoulders and upper front were removed, but the collar and cuff silver braid was kept, and a huge silver triangle was added to the front!
Well! I can only presume that capes were expensive to make, and someone’s been digging into Western Costume’s warehouse!
Check the Gallery here to see each of these costume switcheroos and a few more!
Next time: Props Recycled.
Here’s today’s flashback: From TV Star Parade in July of 1967 comes this great look into the costume and make-up workings of the original series. Love the Spock make-up sessions, promotional photos, and of course the ever-incredible drapings of William Ware Theiss. It was Theiss’s designs that inspired me to study costume design in college, a skill I still use today on my homemade dolls. To see more of Theiss’s great Trek work, click here. And look how much of Nimoy’s eyebrows were shaved off! No wonder he hid behind horn rimmed glasses off screen!
I always appreciated how costume designer William Ware Theiss kept to his budget, even if it involved shower curtains!
(NOTE: This is a repost of one of my earliest articles from way back in 2011 when I started this blog! Posting it again today since I am finally writing Part II, about Star Trek Props)
As I reviewed old episodes of Trek, it was enlightening to see where the costume and production departments saved money and cut costs while making the the episodes. In this first article in the series, I’ll discuss Costume Recycling.
William Ware Theiss ( to be referred here always as WWT) , the supreme costume designer/wunderkind for Star Trek TOS, was always on a tight budget and a tighter schedule. Not only could this genius improvise a bolt of cloth into a ‘how-does-it-stay-on’ gown for an alien princess, but he knew when and how to re-use elements when needed.
*In S1’s The Conscience of the King, Lenore Karidian has the wardrobe that keeps on giving. Early on, she basically wears a luxuriant gray mink bath wrap. At its center is a lovely cats eye oval brooch with a pearl drop.  In a later episode, (s2’s Assignment: Earth) the gray mink dress turns up on a modern (read 1967) passerby in the crowd on Gary Seven’s Earth–this time with a longer skirt under it. Two seasons later, (S3’s Plato’s Stepchildren) the Lenore’s brooch shows up on the bosom of Lt. Uhura when she is forced into Grecian gear by the Platonians.  Just goes to show that a good piece of jewelry never goes out of style!
*Another of Lenore’s gowns had been re-purposed from an earlier episode. The first time, in Dagger of the Mind, it was seen as a tie-closure tunic in foamy green and aqua stripes and a pale pink lame border. When Lenore wore it for her observation deck flirtation with Kirk, the gown has been reversed, sewn up at the shoulders, caftan style, and green marabou added at the sleeves, hints of the pink lining are glimpsed.   Seems a bit ironic that Lenore’s gown was recycled from the gown of a a sanitarium resident, since Lenore herself, (although never seen there), ends up in a sanitarium too.
*Lenore’s Father, Karidian, wears a dramatic olive green robe of a coat with a dark blue swirly branch design running through it, with faux yellow-green fur trim. The very same coat is worn two seasons later by the mad Captain Garth in S3’s Whom Gods Destroy. Then Garth himself has borrowed a blue suit from Commissioner Ferris from S1’s The Galileo Seven–the collar tabs were changed from white to sparkly blue, The ascot is gone, and Garth has added jewelry. (Accessories, ladies!)
*In Season 1, Mudd’s Women, we see Eve and Ruth, two of Harry’s “cargo” looking the stunners in rose pink and mint green sparkly gowns that Diana Ross would kill for. In S2’s I, Mudd, who should turn up in these same gowns but the Annabelle and Maisie Series among Mudd’s improved androids. Gives you a bit of insight into how 60’s TV worked. I’m guessing that WWT made two gowns for the originals, especially Eve since she had more action scenes, and kept them around for incidentals.  And Harry Mudd must know a wholesale retailer for glam space lady gowns! Also in I, Mudd, Norman and the other male androids wear tight gray knit long underwear that leave very little to the imagination. Later two of the same gray tights show up on Lokai and Beale in Let That Be Your Last Battlefield, only with silver spangly trim added at the shirt hem and cuffs.
This recycling on WWT’s part became commonplace. Usually, it’s the gowns of central female characters that end up on extras in later scenes. For example:
*Attorney and Kirk-Ex Ariel Shaw wore a vibrant yellow, green and pink paisley caftan at the bar in Court Martial. (WWT loved caftans!) It shows up later on a female alien ambassador extra in Journey To Babel. And in that same scene, extra is talking to a man in another recycled suit, Lazarus’ blue suit from The Alternative Factor (Yet the suit from the later episode seems to be untorn and clean– maybe WWT made two versions?)
*In The Deadly Years, Dr. Janet Wallace first appears in brightly pink and yellow dyed burlap jumpsuit (What was WWT thinking?!) And later, in a swirly purple multi-print. Yet both of these outfits suffer a nasty fate in the S3 episode Where the Children Shall Lead where (blink and you’ll miss it) they are seen on two of the doomed mothers on the planet Triacus. (Heck, if I had to wear an itchy burlap jumpsuit, I’d die too!) In another flashback on Triacus, we see a happy mother in a pink cowl-necked mini dress, which was originally worn in the S1 episode of The Conscience of the King by character Martha Leighton. Then another of Martha Leighton’s gowns is being worn and slightly modified with straps and fluff by the android version of Harry Mudd’s wife, Stella, in S2’s I, Mudd.
Obsessed fashionistas will find The Ultimate Recycled Moment came from Seasons 1, 2, and from another TV series. In S2′s Catspaw, the wizard Korob  wears a pumpkin colored robe with gold lame hood and front panel, with an all-watching eye at its center. In S1′s The Squire of Gothos, spoiled brat General Trelaine wears a grand blue velvet suit and cape trimmed with gold leaves in his castle. But wait! Didn’t we see BOTH of these costumes in an episode of Gilligan’s Island? Yup, Korob’s gown was worn by Bob Denver as the Fairy God-Father in Lovey’s Cinderella Dream in Lovey’s Secret Admirer. And then, Mr, Howell himself as the Prince, dances the night away in Trelane’s Cape! UPDATE! 6/15/14: A reader here pointed out that they may have seen Trelane’s coat on Mike Nesmith in an episode of The Monkees (Also anNBC series) and he was right: In the episode The Prince and The Pauper, we first see the coat on an old footman, then Mike dons it when pretending to be Davy’s footman. Later we see two of Trelane’s coats in the same scene, which begs the question, how many were made? I’ve also see a later photo of William Campbell, posing in his Trelane finery; I’m glad the costumers let him have one!
(11/22/12 — Found another one! Another series crossover is from the 1966 Daniel Boone episode, SeminoleTerritory, where character of Fletcher wears a splendid Indian feathered cape. Fast Forward to 1968, In The Paradise Syndrome, and Jim Kirk, a.k.a. ‘Kirok’ is wearing the same cape to marry Miramanee!  I bet some of the other native costumes were reused here too, Boone was another NBC series).
Well! I can only presume that capes were expensive to make, and someone’s been digging into Western Costume’s warehouse!
Check the Gallery here to see each of these costume switcheroos and a few more!
Next time: Props Recycled.
